top of page

Sacred Stones & Silent Gods

 Mapping Jain Memory in Nagarparkar

This is not a map of ruins.

It is an offering - to a mountain seen not as terrain, but as sentience. Karoonjhar is a living being: a witness to devotion, migration, and survival. Its stone carries memory not as metaphor, but as material. Through caves, jain temples, and a mosque, we trace a sacred geography shaped by the belief that even footsteps must not harm life. Though the custodians are gone, what remains is not absence - but presence reconfigured.

jain monk

Caves as womb

Tucked into Karoonjhar’s folds, the Anchalasar Cave speaks of inward journeys.

Here, stone became womb - sheltering monks in retreat, echoing breath and silence.

Both Digambara (sky-clad) and Śvētāmbara (white-clad) sects found in these mountains a perfect harmony between body and landscape. For the Digambara monks in particular, who renounce all possessions including clothes, such remote, naturally temperate spaces were essential to their practice. The cool stone offered relief from the desert heat, while the echoing chamber amplified chants in a way that invited focus, stillness, and surrender. In this moment of depiction, a lone Digambara monk sits nude in meditation held by the cave, like a seed held in earth.

clean karoonjhar mountains
graffiti on karoonjhar mountains

Now: The same entrance, marred with white lime, graffiti, and slogans - a fading boundary between reverence and neglect.

Before: The cave entrance at Anchalasar, bare and untouched - a threshold of silence.

anchalsar cave entrance
Anchalasar cave in karoonjhar

The cave’s interior, naturally cool and echoing, remains a quiet witness to centuries of meditation.

 

Despite external damage, the inside holds its grace — a refuge that asks to be respected, not consumed.

Today, much of that sacred quiet is at risk. The cave still offers comfort and shade, but its outer face is now smeared with white lime (choona), casual graffiti, and even political slogans, a jarring contrast to the inner sanctum that remains remarkably serene. This visual archive reveals two realities: what was, and what is. As we hover between them, we are asked to remember that Karoonjhar’s natural architecture is not just rock, it is memory, devotion, and ecological wisdom carved in time. Its preservation cannot rely only on reverence from the past; it requires present responsibility - from locals, visitors, and those who understand that even silence has a shelter.

Temples and Traces:

Explore the Sacred Geography

PAKKHEE (10).png
Photo iPhone Notes App Quote Reminder Instagram Post (1).png

GORI JAIN TEMPLE

ISLAMKOT

PAKKHEE (4)_edited.png

POONI DEHRO
JAIN TEMPLE

BHODESAR

PARINAGAR JAIN TEMPLE

PARINAGAR
JAIN TEMPLE

VIRAWAH

KARO DEHRO

KARO
DEHRO

NEAR BHODESAR

Bhodesar Mosque

BHODESAR

MOSQUE

PAKKHEE (9)_edited.png

JAIN

BAZAAR

TEMPLE

Photo iPhone Notes App Quote Reminder Instagram Post (2).png

BHODESAR
JAIN TEMPLE

Bhodesar Jain Temple 2

BHODESAR
JAIN TEMPLE

On Care, Not Ruin

A curatorial reflection on preservation, memory, and ethical restoration

Areesha Khuwaja

The map invites you to witness what remains. But witnessing is not enough. These are not just remnants of faith - they are ethical architectures, silently asking what it means to care. What follows is a reflection on why this heritage matters, and why the careless restoration or bureaucratic neglect of such sacred sites is not just a material loss. It is an epistemic one.

To reduce these Jain temples to “ruins” is not merely a misreading of their material condition: it is a profound misrecognition of the ethical, cosmological, and aesthetic frameworks they articulate. Shaped by the principle of Ahimsa, these structures are sacred not only because of belief, but because they express an ethics - of restraint, of silence, of the sanctity of life in all its forms.

Yet in contemporary South Asia, heritage regimes continue to treat such sites as inert. They are often valued only insofar as they fit the taxonomies of archaeology, art history, or tourism. As Nayanjot Lahiri notes in Marshalling the Past, archaeological practices have historically “shut out” the very affective, ritual, and political lives of heritage, reducing complex living spaces to mere scientific detritus and archival objects.[1] She reminds us that this “unpeopling of the past” is not a neutral act; it is deeply entangled with the secular epistemologies of modern heritage governance.

Upinder Singh, in The Discovery of Ancient India, critiques early archaeological methods for prioritizing stylistic and chronological classification over the embedded spiritual and cultural meaning of sacred spaces. These frameworks, she argues, favored empires over ecologies, and form over cosmology. [2] In a place like Nagarparkar, such preservation models risk treating Jain architecture as empty form - severed from the spirit that shaped it.
 

Beyond the overt neglect lies a quieter, more insidious form of erasure: the ideological performance of inclusion. Himani Bannerji, in The Dark Side of the Nation, explores how multicultural policy in Canada operates performatively - staging inclusion while structurally excluding minority narratives. [3] Though her context is different, her critique applies here: in Pakistan, selective preservation and institutional silence around Jain heritage function similarly. What appears as bureaucratic indifference is often a political decision to let memory decay. In such cases, neglect is not passive; it is ideological.

The use of steel clamps, cement patches, and nailed wood in so-called “restoration” projects signals more than poor material judgment. It reflects a fundamental disconnection from the spiritual and philosophical grammar of these sites. These gestures are not restorative; they are extractive.

And yet, alternatives exist. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture has demonstrated that ethical restoration is possible: their work at the Wazir Khan Mosque and Humayun’s Tomb integrates historical integrity with ecological and social contexts. In Nepal, Götz Hagmüller’s decades-long work at the Patan Museum exemplifies care that listens to atmosphere, memory, and artisan knowledge rather than simply stabilizing structure.

Karoonjhar, too, requires this kind of attention. It is not just a home to sacred architecture; it is an animate geography, a terrain that holds memory in stone. To care for it is not to reconstruct the past, but to enter into a relation with it - intellectually, ethically, and bodily.

Footnotes:

  1. Lahiri, Nayanjot. Marshalling the Past: Ancient India and Its Modern Histories. Ranikhet: Permanent Black, 2012. See Chapter 2, “Monuments and Memory.”
     

  2. Singh, Upinder. The Discovery of Ancient India: Early Archaeologists and the Beginnings of Archaeology. Ranikhet: Permanent Black, 2004. See Chapter 4, “The Sacred and the Secular in Early Archaeology.”
     

  3. Bannerji, Himani. “Geography Lessons: On Being an Insider/Outsider to the Canadian Nation.” In Unhomely States: Theorizing English-Canadian Postcolonialism, edited by Cynthia Sugars, 289–300. Toronto: Broadview Press, 2004. See also The Dark Side of the Nation: Essays on Multiculturalism, Nationalism and Gender. Toronto: Canadian Scholars’ Press, 2000.

For best interactive experience,

view on web

Explore by

  • Facebook
  • Instagram

© 2025 | Powered by Lahooti. 

bottom of page